Let’s Pay Attention to the Man Behind the Lens

The activity behind the scenes at any show is compelling and yes, during fashion shows…we all want to see how it goes. Increasingly with the digital age, immediate “coverage” of the shows behind, on and who’s sitting at the runway is in high demand. Being a photographer at the shows has become a key position.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I got a chance to follow Getty Photographer Mark Von Holden at a show during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center. The show, coincidentally, was one I had researched and wanted to check out. While the collection didn’t meet with my expectations, chatting with and shadowing Mark ended up being fab.

While I reviewed the few question prepped for my interviewee and as I waited backstage, I couldn’t help but notice that the # of photographers matched the number of models.

Mark arrived a little on the breathless side, getting up and downtown between shows is a challenge for us all during fashion week. He was awesomely low key and totally relaxed despite it all. I first asked him if this is all that he does? Shoot shows and events for Getty? Actually, he loves shooting beauty and sees that as his main medium in photography. His wife (Amy Sussman) has the same gig. In fact, they were both at Lincoln Center the night we connected. How cool.

With a landmark 20th season of shooting Fashion Week, the seasoned New York State born photographer (family is originally from Bronx/Queens), mentioned that what he looks for backstage, where his assignment started, were the “weird and funky moments”. I took this to mean the creative process back stage when moments before the show a designer decides to rip off one sleeve and a trend is born…at least, if I was a photographer, I would want that on camera.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mark’s additional assignment for the evening was not being on the risers fighting for a good spot to place his camera with the Italians (according to our guy Mark, the Italians can be brutal in the photographer’s pit) but to shoot celebrities or anyone of note at the show. This was a show highlighting brand new designers, I didn’t anticipate any celebrities…in fact, and I wondered if the seats would be filled? When asked what he would do then? Mark replied that he would just shoot interesting people. We all know at shows that there are the attention folks that dress crazy so that they will get their photo taken. Mark and his colleagues don’t shoot them necessarily, but they will shoot editors, bloggers, and obvious stylish people with “good taste”.

The show as predicted, didn’t have very many interesting guests that I saw, but Mark managed to find some cool stylish types.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am so happy I got to meet a fellow veteran of NY Fashion Week and while we have a slightly different artistic outcome of our inspiration at the shows, we do have the same job; To share what we see at, behind, and on the runway. It will be nice to have a new friend to wave at next season.

By the way, I think Mark is an even cooler guy since he used to break dance…his favorite dance move is the “Helicopter”. Nice. RL

Photography Credits |

Mark Von Holden “Screen Shot” | Mark Von Holden

Photographers and the end of Runway | APF Getty Images

Runway Show Attendees | Mark Von Holden

Joanna Mastroianni Fall 2012

I noticed her before the show, the older fashionita with the fab red tribal fabric around her hat that matched her dress. I thought, “she knows ‘tribal’ is in. Good for her.” As I waited for the show to start, I couldn’t help but think that this was my 12th NYFW season and I look forward to being that woman in the future. The tears started as we all watched this lovely woman slump as soon as the show started. She was carried away and I knew, something was terribly wrong. The woman was fashion icon and philanthropist, Zelda Kaplan, who passed away shortly after. (Read more about her on this link. She was amazing). It was heartbreaking and sobering, but didn’t take away from the collection. In fact, somehow, it made the Joanna Mastroianni’s inspiration statement even more salient.

Her theme? Women inspiring women. Specifically, iconic fashionistas. Couturier, Joaanna Mastronianni’s Fall 2012 shown at Mercedes Benz Fashion week was incredible. Each piece was intricately designed around “the ultimate fashionista” and what she might wear in the designers favorite haunts in the world.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Starting with Central Park in New York, the pieces were stunning and showed a pragmatic line that we women in NYC must have.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next was Paris…loved, loved, loved. The mohair hats…the perfect accessory.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally, Asia with kimono like lines that were exquisite and perfect for a woman.

The detail and intricate work were fabulous in this collection. All executed by hand and one of kind on each garment. The fabrics that look tufted, were actually created by shredding, shirring and cutting the silk organza into tiny strips, then embroidered with “caviar” beads onto sheer organza backing. Chunks of faceted metal were covered with black leather and then surrounded with more shirred organza and caviar beads. A stunning detail that added modern texture.

Each and every piece was lovely. A touching tribute to an elegant elegant woman who Johanna brought on the runway with her at the end. This woman was Joanna’s muse for the collection, 90 year old “it girl” and famed interior designer for nine presidents, Iris Apfel. My tears to continued.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was so touched on many levels by this show that I decided that this should be my last show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center for the season. A good one on many levels to end on not only for the beauty, but also for the inspiration of iconic women and the reminder that being one hundred percent authentic is what it is all about. “If you look well, then you heighten the atmosphere of a place, but remember to always be yourself. You can’t turn marble into silk” Zelda Kaplan on ‘style’. RL

P.S. Iris Apfel has her own FB page…like her. She’s cool

Photo Credits |

Joanna Mastroianni Fall Collection by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images North America

Bio Pic of Iris Apfel

Photo of Iris and designer Joanna Mastroianni by Rebecca Luke

Ankar Sweden Fall 2012

I love the up close and personal time I get with clothing designers. It’s definitely a “high” when I get in on conversations about the angle of the pocket or finish on a hem.

 

 

 

At a breakfast showing yesterday at the Empire Hotel Rooftop, I got just that with designer, Niklas Ankar, who is clearly a creative that understands who he is designing for. This statement provide by the PR folks for the line is a perfect description of the line.

“A ‘love letter’ to men’s fashion, featuring expertly tailored shirts and sleek trousers, colorful separates in the form of cashmere sweaters and tartan Morning coats, and a signature limited-°©edition smoking.”

With simply two styles of jackets in the collection. Both the classic style and Nehru style jackets have been designed with the modern man in mind. Available in several fabrics, including a heavier wool, the jackets can double as coats.

The Fall 2012 collection fabrics were all milled in Italy and I loved that Mr. Ankar has followed the bespoke tradition of matching fabrics (remember how I feel about that with plaid) and creating unique finishes on cuffs and hems. Even the belts shown were Ankar of Sweden and they were made out of upholstery fabric. I love it.

 

 

 

 

Trend wise, the mixing of color is still prevalent with pop color on the bottoms. For men, socks are still important as they will be seen. Ankar styled the collection with a fun mix of color socks against the color cords and pants. The collection for Fall 2012 is lovely.

I love the sleek and elegant look of the Ankar top coat that is the same silhouette of the Ankar Nehru jacket. Niklas endearingly mentioned the detail of the coat  that has slant pockets instead. Much easier for a gentleman as he walks through the city on a brisk day.

 

 

 

 

 

Well, I found another Nordic brand to love and follow. Now boys, lets get some of these pieces on you. RL

Photo Credits | Leigh Vogel/Getty Images North America

Carlos Miele

Southern Brazil Baby! At Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week, Carlos Meile presented a fabulous Fall collection that was truly lovely.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using the traditional gauchas (cowboys) as his inspiration, the designer created accessible pieces in a gorgeous neutral palate that made me want to find some one  put someone in every piece.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I loved the jumpsuits ~ anyone that knows me knows I live for jumpsuits.  The pairing with  the waist cinching  wide black belt with fur stole was the right way to style for the show.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The geometric prints were inspired by patterns of traditional gaucho sashes and ponchos and the gold, green and neutral tones by the natural landscape. To me, it felt like the “tribal futuristic” pattern feel seen thought NYFW.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Texture was created by handicraft techniques that included woven tiras, metal embroidery and fabric overlays. Gorgeous.

Authentic gaucha hats and sashes were worn through out the collection. (Hey, I did that last season for The Finerie Show! )

 

 

 

 

 

 

The collection was presented by twin DJs cutely spinning Brazilian grooves. I so wanted to check them out at the after party, but someone let 600 people RSVP for a venue that held 150…so, I opted to have a lovely drink and conversation with my fab “plus one” next door. RL

 

Photo Credits |

Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images

DJ Photo by Rebecca Luke

 

 

Falguni and Shane Peacock FW 2012

 

I was prepared for something special, but as soon as the lights went up at the Falguni and Shane Peacock show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week today, my breath was taken away.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As a garmento, I can’t help but “geek” out on the amazing fabrics with prints that were sumptuous. The combination of sheer fabric, feathers, sequins and leather never seemed over the top. The finale dress shown above was fabulous.

The duo created an elegant collection that was seamless. With prints that continue in the “tribal” trend, they went one step further with prints I call “tribal futuristic”.  Dark and sexy, each piece inspired me to a gothic groove.

The make up designed by Mehron followed suit with tight high and long ponytails (Matthew Curtis for TRESemme) that kept everything sleek, sleek, and sleek.

With many of the garments being sheer, the wearer will have to be comfortable and confident. Man, if I could wear a piece of FSP, I would feel like I owned the world. The collection even included a body suit. I know many of us wouldn’t wear the piece, but paired with a sheer wide skirt, it could look incredible.

I was surprised by the yellow gold that was used in many accessories and the hardware on the pieces. The jewelry was designed by Ben-Amun. I liked it. It seemed like an appropriate pick.

 

 

I am currently trying to find out more details on the designers themselves and have found that information on them specifically, it tough to find. Now that I have seen their collection in person, I am on a mission to find out about who they are.

The Falguni and Shane Peakcock F/W 2012 Collection was oh so perfectly appealing to my personal aesthetic. Dark, Sexy, Sumptuous and Exquisite…an all around thumbs up. RL

P.S. Please forgive the photos…none up to access yet and these are mine.

 

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