Ghassan Yazbeck Fall/Winter 2012

My coverage of NY Fashion Week continues. I had to take a bit of a break. My last post impacted me more than I imagined, and I felt I had to sit with it for a bit…Fashion Week in NY not only takes place at Lincoln Center as you know, it happens all over town.

 

 

 

 

For the last several seasons, I have been trying to catch what the organizers at IFashion/IConcept have been putting together. Production quality aside, IFashion usually presents super unique and talented new designers. Ghassan Yazbeck was on my list to check out (See my NYFW Fall 2012 Preview Post) and I am so glad I did.  When you hear “recent grad”, you often think “young” designer. What pleasantly surprised me about this designer is that this is a second career after working as a clinical pharmacist for years. With a fascinating back story as a immigrant to Canada fleeing Lebanon in 1976 due to the severe conditions of the civil war in that country, the designer obviously has a great history to draw his design inspiration upon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The combination of wool crepe and leather were lovely and perfect for Fall/Winter. I was drawn to the architecture of the tailored pieces with the pairing of the draped pieces. Alone or combined, each piece was a stand out.  The printed chiffon for the Fall collection was gorgeous and a perfect complement to the bold red, black and white of the rest of the pieces.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Initially, I was drawn to checking this new designer out for his sustainability angle of designing and manufacturing his collection in New York ~ An added sustainable bonus. I anticipate we will be seeing more of Ghassan Yazbeck…I was so glad I made the show with just minutes to spare. RL

 

Photo Credits | IConcept for Ghassan Yazbeck

Joanna Mastroianni Fall 2012

I noticed her before the show, the older fashionita with the fab red tribal fabric around her hat that matched her dress. I thought, “she knows ‘tribal’ is in. Good for her.” As I waited for the show to start, I couldn’t help but think that this was my 12th NYFW season and I look forward to being that woman in the future. The tears started as we all watched this lovely woman slump as soon as the show started. She was carried away and I knew, something was terribly wrong. The woman was fashion icon and philanthropist, Zelda Kaplan, who passed away shortly after. (Read more about her on this link. She was amazing). It was heartbreaking and sobering, but didn’t take away from the collection. In fact, somehow, it made the Joanna Mastroianni’s inspiration statement even more salient.

Her theme? Women inspiring women. Specifically, iconic fashionistas. Couturier, Joaanna Mastronianni’s Fall 2012 shown at Mercedes Benz Fashion week was incredible. Each piece was intricately designed around “the ultimate fashionista” and what she might wear in the designers favorite haunts in the world.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Starting with Central Park in New York, the pieces were stunning and showed a pragmatic line that we women in NYC must have.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next was Paris…loved, loved, loved. The mohair hats…the perfect accessory.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally, Asia with kimono like lines that were exquisite and perfect for a woman.

The detail and intricate work were fabulous in this collection. All executed by hand and one of kind on each garment. The fabrics that look tufted, were actually created by shredding, shirring and cutting the silk organza into tiny strips, then embroidered with “caviar” beads onto sheer organza backing. Chunks of faceted metal were covered with black leather and then surrounded with more shirred organza and caviar beads. A stunning detail that added modern texture.

Each and every piece was lovely. A touching tribute to an elegant elegant woman who Johanna brought on the runway with her at the end. This woman was Joanna’s muse for the collection, 90 year old “it girl” and famed interior designer for nine presidents, Iris Apfel. My tears to continued.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was so touched on many levels by this show that I decided that this should be my last show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center for the season. A good one on many levels to end on not only for the beauty, but also for the inspiration of iconic women and the reminder that being one hundred percent authentic is what it is all about. “If you look well, then you heighten the atmosphere of a place, but remember to always be yourself. You can’t turn marble into silk” Zelda Kaplan on ‘style’. RL

P.S. Iris Apfel has her own FB page…like her. She’s cool

Photo Credits |

Joanna Mastroianni Fall Collection by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images North America

Bio Pic of Iris Apfel

Photo of Iris and designer Joanna Mastroianni by Rebecca Luke

Ankar Sweden Fall 2012

I love the up close and personal time I get with clothing designers. It’s definitely a “high” when I get in on conversations about the angle of the pocket or finish on a hem.

 

 

 

At a breakfast showing yesterday at the Empire Hotel Rooftop, I got just that with designer, Niklas Ankar, who is clearly a creative that understands who he is designing for. This statement provide by the PR folks for the line is a perfect description of the line.

“A ‘love letter’ to men’s fashion, featuring expertly tailored shirts and sleek trousers, colorful separates in the form of cashmere sweaters and tartan Morning coats, and a signature limited-°©edition smoking.”

With simply two styles of jackets in the collection. Both the classic style and Nehru style jackets have been designed with the modern man in mind. Available in several fabrics, including a heavier wool, the jackets can double as coats.

The Fall 2012 collection fabrics were all milled in Italy and I loved that Mr. Ankar has followed the bespoke tradition of matching fabrics (remember how I feel about that with plaid) and creating unique finishes on cuffs and hems. Even the belts shown were Ankar of Sweden and they were made out of upholstery fabric. I love it.

 

 

 

 

Trend wise, the mixing of color is still prevalent with pop color on the bottoms. For men, socks are still important as they will be seen. Ankar styled the collection with a fun mix of color socks against the color cords and pants. The collection for Fall 2012 is lovely.

I love the sleek and elegant look of the Ankar top coat that is the same silhouette of the Ankar Nehru jacket. Niklas endearingly mentioned the detail of the coat  that has slant pockets instead. Much easier for a gentleman as he walks through the city on a brisk day.

 

 

 

 

 

Well, I found another Nordic brand to love and follow. Now boys, lets get some of these pieces on you. RL

Photo Credits | Leigh Vogel/Getty Images North America

Carlos Miele

Southern Brazil Baby! At Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week, Carlos Meile presented a fabulous Fall collection that was truly lovely.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using the traditional gauchas (cowboys) as his inspiration, the designer created accessible pieces in a gorgeous neutral palate that made me want to find some one  put someone in every piece.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I loved the jumpsuits ~ anyone that knows me knows I live for jumpsuits.  The pairing with  the waist cinching  wide black belt with fur stole was the right way to style for the show.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The geometric prints were inspired by patterns of traditional gaucho sashes and ponchos and the gold, green and neutral tones by the natural landscape. To me, it felt like the “tribal futuristic” pattern feel seen thought NYFW.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Texture was created by handicraft techniques that included woven tiras, metal embroidery and fabric overlays. Gorgeous.

Authentic gaucha hats and sashes were worn through out the collection. (Hey, I did that last season for The Finerie Show! )

 

 

 

 

 

 

The collection was presented by twin DJs cutely spinning Brazilian grooves. I so wanted to check them out at the after party, but someone let 600 people RSVP for a venue that held 150…so, I opted to have a lovely drink and conversation with my fab “plus one” next door. RL

 

Photo Credits |

Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images

DJ Photo by Rebecca Luke

 

 

Falguni and Shane Peacock FW 2012

 

I was prepared for something special, but as soon as the lights went up at the Falguni and Shane Peacock show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week today, my breath was taken away.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As a garmento, I can’t help but “geek” out on the amazing fabrics with prints that were sumptuous. The combination of sheer fabric, feathers, sequins and leather never seemed over the top. The finale dress shown above was fabulous.

The duo created an elegant collection that was seamless. With prints that continue in the “tribal” trend, they went one step further with prints I call “tribal futuristic”.  Dark and sexy, each piece inspired me to a gothic groove.

The make up designed by Mehron followed suit with tight high and long ponytails (Matthew Curtis for TRESemme) that kept everything sleek, sleek, and sleek.

With many of the garments being sheer, the wearer will have to be comfortable and confident. Man, if I could wear a piece of FSP, I would feel like I owned the world. The collection even included a body suit. I know many of us wouldn’t wear the piece, but paired with a sheer wide skirt, it could look incredible.

I was surprised by the yellow gold that was used in many accessories and the hardware on the pieces. The jewelry was designed by Ben-Amun. I liked it. It seemed like an appropriate pick.

 

 

I am currently trying to find out more details on the designers themselves and have found that information on them specifically, it tough to find. Now that I have seen their collection in person, I am on a mission to find out about who they are.

The Falguni and Shane Peakcock F/W 2012 Collection was oh so perfectly appealing to my personal aesthetic. Dark, Sexy, Sumptuous and Exquisite…an all around thumbs up. RL

P.S. Please forgive the photos…none up to access yet and these are mine.

 

Nautica FW 2012

Prep style with bold hits of color are definitely on the horizon for spring. For Fall the trend continues but with winter hues like a pop of burgundy at Nautica. No doubt that the classic American’s line color base will always be that traditional Navy. What’s great is that there is so much that can be done with it.

 

 

 

 

Since my taste is a bit more rock n roll, I would like to see  guys take just one piece of Nautica and mixed with the likes of Rag and Bone and Varvatos;That would be brilliant. I love to see a guy mix it up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My stand out piece has no great shots either from the Nautica photos or mine, but here it is. I love the idea of this coat popped with a color skinny denim bottom, combat boots and awesome plaid.

The event was right up my alley as far as how to entertain goes.  We were all greeted at the door with a lovely beverage and smiling faces. The first shot gives you a sense of the room. Nice. RL

Brandon Sun

Yes! I’m fabulously inspired right off the bat with Brandon Sun who presented today at The Box at Lincoln Center, Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. Using “sword wielding heroines” as his muse for this collection, the pieces drew me in instantly with muted grey based colors. The texture play is lovely with knits of all weaves, fur, leather and wool.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am so excited for this look personally and know that it could be translated on women of several sizes.

There is no doubt that beyond his signature collection of luxury fur accessories, the designer will be sought out for his Ready To Wear. I heart him. The crowd at the show rockin’ some great style. Even more fun.

It’s just the beginning of the week. Can’t wait to continue to share more with you. RL

I Heart Plaid

I love plaid…I always have. I had one of those lovely Scottish red tartan skirts with the big pin and pleats when I was a little girl. It was my favorite. In college, I chose a plaid fabric in Tailoring One to create a jacket with matching shorts;I wore it out with the girls one night…geeky you say?…I met one of my serious boyfriends that night. I’m just saying, plaid can make you feel…sexy?

 

“A plaid is a pattern consisting of crossed horizontal and vertical bands in two or more colors in woven cloth. “[Dictionary.com] As far as fabrics go, there is a load of history behind plaid. The first evidence of its existence? 100 BC. Its iconic popularity began in the 17th century with what we all know as the Scottish plaid/tartan. Standing for rebellion, it was banned by the English only to become a popular pattern for school uniforms by that same country. The mods made it cool and the teenage girls screaming for the Beatles made it sexy.   Grunge made it stand for rebellion again, only to have fashion take it over and put it on the runways for triple the price. This past summer, over a million visitors  at the Alexander McQueen exhibit viewed the designer’s homage to fabric of his home country.

Wearing plaid is problematic, but I have found be keeping it clean and simple can make the obvious fear adding of pattern to your body. If you don’t want commit to the whole plaid on your body thing, use it in small doses. As an accessory; belt, bag, socks…this work for both guys and gals.

Last month in Seattle, Lushy, a band created by one of my dear old friends from the scooter/mod years, had their monthly Friday night fab gig at Vitos and asked their fan following to wear plaid…this crew always, always dresses and any theme is not daunting. Seattle Art scenesters Jo David and Marlow Harris were my favorite pictured here. My point, its just fun to wear plaid…

What’s even better about plaid is that it is a pattern that can be worn year round. But wait, before you go for it, a reminder that there are summer plaids and colors and winter plaids/colors. Be mindful…wearing a red wool tartan skirt in the heat light of summer is strange…so, don’t do it.

The thing to remember is that plaid is never going away, it is a fabric pattern that has stood the test of time. Embrace it. Here are some current plaid looks that I am loving this season both for guys and gals. Photo Credits From Top: Me with Patrick Napper and Greg Lundgren at Vitos, Alexander McQueen Plaid at The Met, JoDavid at Lushy/Vitos, Carven Twill Tartan Dress, Thakoon, Band of Outsiders, Couture Plaid Gown, Men’s Fall 2011 70′s inspired plaid, Stay Classic Blog, Isaia Fall 2011

A quick Dial in on Fur Purse Charms

As I entered my flat after a lovely dinner in the city with my film gals at Peels, I saw to my roommates bag. I said to myself “Oh No. She didn’t!”

Attached to her bag was a bag fur tail bag charm. A faux fox one fashioned like the Luis Vuitton one Victoria Beckham sported last year.

The trend of the fur tail bag charm has been an interesting one for me to follow. I don’t know… I like it in photos…but there is no way I can get around my history of costume roots on this one. As my friends and clients know, I love sharing those interesting facts behind clothing and design. This is good you guys…

The fur attachment reminds me of the periods both in England and France when the gowns and garments were heavy and layered, especially in the courts. Wigs were added and bathing was not an every day thing. Lice and mice were common in and amongst the garments. Yikes. So, the idea was to attach fur charms on the garments or carry a small fur pelt in their hand so that these little critters would go away from the person and onto the fur charm away from the body. Double Yikes. This practice in fashion history was during the Tudor Period (the first half of the 16th C. under Henry VII)

My roommate’s response to this story? “Mine is to keep dirty hipsters away”. Ha. RL

P.S. Special Thanks to my history of costume professor, Dr. Stella Warnick, for her help in confirming the details and finding a great example.

The “I want it Now” Phenomena and Chanel Spring 2011

Is everything too immediate these days? I for one, am sucked into the social networking phenomena and love that I can connect with friends and family all over the world, see photos and posts of what they just did…a minute ago. However, that being said, is it too much to soon?

As member of the fashion media, I enjoy being able to see images from London, Paris, Milan, Mumbai, etc. right away.  It’s my job, but It’s a perk. Just like having permission to share this video of Chanel’s Spring 2011 show in Paris last week.

By the way, as far as Chanel’s Spring 2011 Collection goes, I recommend the dresses. If you are ready to splurge. This may be where you do it. Th lace like over lay over the white is fab. The stand out dress for me? The baby blue with feather-like embellishing. And, this spring, one approach is being ultra feminine. The thigh high footless leggings are also quite fab. I want to say perfect for the Northwest, but let’s face it, FAB anywhere.

This is one reason I like to share what is coming for the next season with my clients. It allows us to plan and if need be, budget. But, on the other hand, I get the the issue with immediacy. Especially because so many of my friends are designers…

How do you feel about the immediacy of our world today? Tom Ford recently showed his Spring 2011 collection to a limited audience in a salon setting and will not release photos until close to when the pieces will be available in the store. His thoughts: “This fashion immediacy thing…if you can see them and press a button and they can be shipped to your house, I get fashion immediacy.…I don’t get the need for this immediacy. In fact, I think it’s bad.

The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they’re online, the world sees them. They don’t get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They’re in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store.

They’re overexposed, you’re tired of them, they’ve lost their freshness, you see somebody wearing it and you say, “Oh, that’s that jacket that was in blah, blah, blah, blah, blah.” Or [a] customer doesn’t want to wear that jacket that was in blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. In addition, all of the fast-fashion companies that do a great job, by the way, knock everything off. So it’s everywhere all over the streets in three months and by the time you get it to the store, what’s the point? ” (WWD Sept 14, 2010)

Chime in. RL

photo credit | Steve Lambert

video credit | courtesy of Vidicom