Ghassan Yazbeck Fall/Winter 2012

My coverage of NY Fashion Week continues. I had to take a bit of a break. My last post impacted me more than I imagined, and I felt I had to sit with it for a bit…Fashion Week in NY not only takes place at Lincoln Center as you know, it happens all over town.

 

 

 

 

For the last several seasons, I have been trying to catch what the organizers at IFashion/IConcept have been putting together. Production quality aside, IFashion usually presents super unique and talented new designers. Ghassan Yazbeck was on my list to check out (See my NYFW Fall 2012 Preview Post) and I am so glad I did.  When you hear “recent grad”, you often think “young” designer. What pleasantly surprised me about this designer is that this is a second career after working as a clinical pharmacist for years. With a fascinating back story as a immigrant to Canada fleeing Lebanon in 1976 due to the severe conditions of the civil war in that country, the designer obviously has a great history to draw his design inspiration upon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The combination of wool crepe and leather were lovely and perfect for Fall/Winter. I was drawn to the architecture of the tailored pieces with the pairing of the draped pieces. Alone or combined, each piece was a stand out.  The printed chiffon for the Fall collection was gorgeous and a perfect complement to the bold red, black and white of the rest of the pieces.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Initially, I was drawn to checking this new designer out for his sustainability angle of designing and manufacturing his collection in New York ~ An added sustainable bonus. I anticipate we will be seeing more of Ghassan Yazbeck…I was so glad I made the show with just minutes to spare. RL

 

Photo Credits | IConcept for Ghassan Yazbeck

Joanna Mastroianni Fall 2012

I noticed her before the show, the older fashionita with the fab red tribal fabric around her hat that matched her dress. I thought, “she knows ‘tribal’ is in. Good for her.” As I waited for the show to start, I couldn’t help but think that this was my 12th NYFW season and I look forward to being that woman in the future. The tears started as we all watched this lovely woman slump as soon as the show started. She was carried away and I knew, something was terribly wrong. The woman was fashion icon and philanthropist, Zelda Kaplan, who passed away shortly after. (Read more about her on this link. She was amazing). It was heartbreaking and sobering, but didn’t take away from the collection. In fact, somehow, it made the Joanna Mastroianni’s inspiration statement even more salient.

Her theme? Women inspiring women. Specifically, iconic fashionistas. Couturier, Joaanna Mastronianni’s Fall 2012 shown at Mercedes Benz Fashion week was incredible. Each piece was intricately designed around “the ultimate fashionista” and what she might wear in the designers favorite haunts in the world.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Starting with Central Park in New York, the pieces were stunning and showed a pragmatic line that we women in NYC must have.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next was Paris…loved, loved, loved. The mohair hats…the perfect accessory.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally, Asia with kimono like lines that were exquisite and perfect for a woman.

The detail and intricate work were fabulous in this collection. All executed by hand and one of kind on each garment. The fabrics that look tufted, were actually created by shredding, shirring and cutting the silk organza into tiny strips, then embroidered with “caviar” beads onto sheer organza backing. Chunks of faceted metal were covered with black leather and then surrounded with more shirred organza and caviar beads. A stunning detail that added modern texture.

Each and every piece was lovely. A touching tribute to an elegant elegant woman who Johanna brought on the runway with her at the end. This woman was Joanna’s muse for the collection, 90 year old “it girl” and famed interior designer for nine presidents, Iris Apfel. My tears to continued.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was so touched on many levels by this show that I decided that this should be my last show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center for the season. A good one on many levels to end on not only for the beauty, but also for the inspiration of iconic women and the reminder that being one hundred percent authentic is what it is all about. “If you look well, then you heighten the atmosphere of a place, but remember to always be yourself. You can’t turn marble into silk” Zelda Kaplan on ‘style’. RL

P.S. Iris Apfel has her own FB page…like her. She’s cool

Photo Credits |

Joanna Mastroianni Fall Collection by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images North America

Bio Pic of Iris Apfel

Photo of Iris and designer Joanna Mastroianni by Rebecca Luke

Falguni and Shane Peacock FW 2012

 

I was prepared for something special, but as soon as the lights went up at the Falguni and Shane Peacock show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week today, my breath was taken away.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As a garmento, I can’t help but “geek” out on the amazing fabrics with prints that were sumptuous. The combination of sheer fabric, feathers, sequins and leather never seemed over the top. The finale dress shown above was fabulous.

The duo created an elegant collection that was seamless. With prints that continue in the “tribal” trend, they went one step further with prints I call “tribal futuristic”.  Dark and sexy, each piece inspired me to a gothic groove.

The make up designed by Mehron followed suit with tight high and long ponytails (Matthew Curtis for TRESemme) that kept everything sleek, sleek, and sleek.

With many of the garments being sheer, the wearer will have to be comfortable and confident. Man, if I could wear a piece of FSP, I would feel like I owned the world. The collection even included a body suit. I know many of us wouldn’t wear the piece, but paired with a sheer wide skirt, it could look incredible.

I was surprised by the yellow gold that was used in many accessories and the hardware on the pieces. The jewelry was designed by Ben-Amun. I liked it. It seemed like an appropriate pick.

 

 

I am currently trying to find out more details on the designers themselves and have found that information on them specifically, it tough to find. Now that I have seen their collection in person, I am on a mission to find out about who they are.

The Falguni and Shane Peakcock F/W 2012 Collection was oh so perfectly appealing to my personal aesthetic. Dark, Sexy, Sumptuous and Exquisite…an all around thumbs up. RL

P.S. Please forgive the photos…none up to access yet and these are mine.

 

Guli SP 2011 at Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week

As I stepped out today on to Lincoln Center to meet my photographer,  Webb Davis, I had a glorious feeling in my heart…even though I got off a stop early…It was early and the sun was shining and it was going to be my first show ever at Lincoln Center. Exciting.

The show was Guli and there is no doubt that I am drawn to international designers when I am at MBFW. The injection of ethnicity into modern clothing is compelling and exciting to me.

With the Guli Collection designed by the gorgeous and brilliant Uzbekistani Ambassador to Spain, Gulnara Karimova, it’s clear he pride of the designer of her culture and the traditional textiles and clothing practices that come from her country.

As I imagined myself wearing several of the pieces on some island getaway, I was mesmerized by several pieces.

Love the above for the sexy powerful look. A fan, of the slouchy & the skinny pant ~ yes, I can’t decide ~ I’m glad I don’t have to. The shawl with the corset bra top is especially lovely.

This gown is stunning. The sheer panels of  mint, curry & pale yellow are gorgeous based with the nude. Love!

What can I say about the above except I would wear it in a heart beat. The sheer skirt bottom juxtaposed with the quilting above is genius.

The color story? Influenced by the Middle & Far East, there isn’t one. That was what I found especially beautiful. The IKAT’s were incredible. Each were produced by the GULI Creative team based on hand weaving techniques. Styled with nude one piece bathing suits and slouchy black flat boots with an IKAT detail, I felt the warmth on my skin.

Guli’s Menswear had an effortless air that most men I know could easily slip in to. All the accessories & jewelry were designed by Guli.

As if that wasn’t enough, the designer is a rock star and ultimate example of “Sustainable Style”. She chairs The Fund Forum, the biggest NGO in the country of Uzbekistan with offices in major fashion/art cities all over the world. Their mission is to preserve and aid in Uzbek culture presentations, aiding crafts dynasties and supporting talented children and youth from the country. Ms. Karimova is also involved with The Women’s Council, National Breast Cancer Association, Avicenna International Association of Traditional Medicine, the Mehr Nuri (Ray of Mercy) Charitable Foundation, and the Social Initiative Support Fund (SISF). As we say at SSF, a woman of  “Style & Substance” tm. RL

photos: All photos are rights reserved by Rebecca Luke Style shot by Webb Davis.

My Heart in Seoul

Okay, I do have a cheesy title, but it sounded good while I was in Seoul, so I just went with it. Seoul is a super city. The second largest city in the world, it has all that us urban lovers dig and more. I never thought I would ever have the opportunity to get there, but surprise to me; I was able to get there this month.
Asked to speak on behalf of Sustainable Style Foundation by the Korean Fashion Association at the 2nd Annual Global Fashion Forum focusing on “Green Fashion”, I was thrilled to share SSF’s perspective on sustainable lifestyle choices and why “Sustainable Fashion” is such an important conversation in our industry right now. It was an incredible experience.

To start, we stayed at the W – Walkerhill that we found to be out of the way, but worth it. It sits on top of a hill with stellar views and is the only W in Asia. The pool and amenities are fabulous and the lobby, well, is supposedly a club destination for the hip in Seoul. It felt a bit weird, because it was our lobby, but after a couple of days, we got used to relaxing and checking out the scene before heading home.

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But as you know, I have to talk about the shopping in Seoul. Over the past couple of years, certain Korean brands have been getting my attention; Eryn Brinie, Sol and a few others. Korean style is right on target and a bit ahead of the western curve.

My Favorite Trends |

Sequins | Sequin everything is still hot and I found it everywhere and on all types of garments in Korea. I especially love sequin leggings & jackets. You can find these items locally in the Sates in most stores. In Seattle, The Finerie has a great sequin jacket option. I love this simple line of the Naeem Kahn Sequin Dress.

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Square shoulders or Shoulder details | I am seeing a lot of this in current mags, but not quite on the streets or in the stores. Stand by…It is Sean Young in Blade Runner…but updated and fun.

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Rivets & Studs| while it may seem exclusively rock and roll, I noticed it in a lot of Korean styles. On bags, on shoulders, on hats. I like it. I took a close up of a traditional royal guard costume and found it there. Cool to see how history always plays in clothing. I also just saw this kind of detail in the Holiday looks from Barney’s on a Givenchy Bag. nice.

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Parkas| I love Parkas with the fleece details. My traveling companion and fellow quirky fashionista, Brenda, found a terrific one in Korea. This is a must have. You can do it super casual or find a dressier one. This one is a great find by Antik Batik.

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My Favorite Stores/Brands |

Eryn Brinie | Lucky that the States host the Eryn Brinie flagship store in Manhattan on W Broadway. I have been shopping there for the past year and a half since they opened. CUTE. I stopped off at the Eryn Brinie store located in one of Seoul’s major departments stores, Shinsegae.

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Tankus| Oh my. I heart Tankus. Fresh, edgy and made well, this Korean brand is available a few places here and there. Oak in NYC carries some pieces and online. Don’t worry. I am working on sourcing more places in the states. Their store in Seoul is also located in Shinsegae.

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Codes Combine | This store is located in the Myeong-dong area and fab. I loved it more for men, but the gals have good picks as well.

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A-LAND | No real site for this store, but hi, was our absolute favorite. The store carries mostly Korean brands for men and women except perhaps Cheap Monday and APC, which I did see. On the top floor, the surprise was all the vintage…with Value Village price tags! Located in the hip young Myeong-dong area, as well as, the high end Apgujeong neighborhood. This is a must stop for lovers of trend and fashion. I didn’t read about it…I just saw cool people walking out of it and decided we had to stop.

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Stori| Beautiful hand crafted accessories. Can’t seem to find a site, but will follow up as I keep looking.

Obzee | by Kang Jin Young of Y & Kei. He and his wife, Hanni, also have Hanni and Hanni. And she, has her own brand Hanni Y. All incredible. Talent obviously runs in this family.

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Neighborhood breakdown according to RLS |
Thank god for traveling companions and for local hosts. I was a bit nervy for my speech and the trip was so last minute, I had little time to research. With my companion’s notes, our lovely local connection, Boram ~ who by the way, works for the parent company of two of my favorite brands ~  and the handy “Wallpaper Guide to Seoul”, we hit and found all the right hoods.

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Myeong-dong | Hipster shopping above the ground and underground shops with price performing cute fashion.
Apgujeong | The high-end area that also boasts a Rodeo St that parallels Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Drive.
Hong-dae | University Area and a place to go out clubbing. By the way, stores are open till 2 a.m. and the clubs till 5…so you can get an outfit to go out in!
Seongbuk-dong | Gilsangsa Temple is here as well as some exclusive interiors stores and. We were able to visit a traditional costume place, Hyojae.
Samchoeng-dong | Cute shopping area. A lot of stores have been featured in Vogue.
Namdaemoon | Traditional Market, it has so much from clothing to food. We found a great accessories market with wholesale prices!
Garosugil | Pretty people also flock to this neighborhood. Stores have the feel of Nolita in New York. Great traditional Korean Food and a famous “Chicken & Beer” stop.
Dondaemun | All night market! Really? Really? Three buildings, multiple floors…all clothes and shoes. We didn’t know, we thought it was food and chatkes…good thing we had limited cash and cards that night…

I don’t feel I have to say it, it may be quite obvious, but this won’t be my last trip to Seoul. I love the people, I love the food, I love the style both in the street and in the stores and finally, I love that my hope for global sustainability in my industry took me there. RL

Photo Credits | From the Top

DJ at the Woo Bar – W Seoul | RLS

Naeem Khan | Naeem Khan

Givenchy | Givenchy

Traditional Korean Royal Guard  | RLS

Antik Batik | Revolve Clothing

RL at Eryn Brinie | RLS

Tankus | Tankus

Codes Combine Store | RLS

A-Land Store | RLS

Obzee Fall 09 | tFS

Namdaemoon | RLS

RLS shopping finds in London

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I am finally reporting in on my London finds…
Sadly as we go global, the shopping does too. It’s hard to find unique looks. Yes, I know I needed to go to Harrods and Top Shop, the Portobello market, etc. I just wanted to find something different. It was really tough for me to find the spirit of London style but I found it. In East London, an area called Spitalfields. Just one street over from Brick Lane, this area felt like Brooklyn to me. Spitalfields has a Sunday market as well. We just got the tail end, but it looked quite promising. We stumbled by a store and I slid in just before they were closing; Hurwundeki ~ they had an incredible second hand vibe along with new items and their own label. Their accessories & shoes were fab. Apparently they are a hair salon as well…didn’t get that when we walked in.

There is one chain store in London that I liked…we found their flagship store in Spitalfields. It had a Diesel groove going which the rock & roll side of me loves…All Saints. Right on in my book.

Speaking of Sundays, in the middle of busy Brick Lane, there is a little alcove of Indy designers and artists that we were so excited to find. Here are a few of the talented little luvvies I liked. Definitely worth braving through the crowd for this gem: Mr. Wingate – Great Graphic Tees, Karing Monie – Bags & Belts, Gutavo Ortiz - Artist

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For an alternative to Bond Street and to shop more lcoal, check out area between the Kightsbridge & Sloane Square stations. With a mix of high-end stores such as Chanel and Prada, along side galleries and cute restaurants, this area is not crowed with tourists and very relaxing to shop in. The famed Joseph stores has two storefronts in this hood with one that carries every high-end designer that you have ever drooled over with the affordable pieces across the street. I found a ‘to die for’ Parisian jeweler named Laurence Coste, a London based shoes store called Gwendolyn Carrie…proper and cute, and an independent designer, Betty Jackson, who had a bit of a progressive edge. Needless to say, you could have a lovely day shopping in this neighborhood.

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For me, vintage is the way to go when you are in Europe…it is hard for us West Coast Americans to find good antique and vintage clothing. I found a vintage market that is a great alternative to Portobello Market ~ The Clerkenwell Vintage Fashion Fair. The bonus was that this market was in another hip area of London (east) called Clerkenwell (pronounced “Clarkenwell” apparently)…I didn’t buy much (one suitcase and everything) but I found a cool Gucci scarf from the 90′s that is a perfect memory of the experience. This market in the Clerkenwell Town Hall had lovely snacks or “tea” and swing dancers…fun. Plus, the hipster pub is right across the street.

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There one UK designer that I am totally a fan of and that is Vivienne Westwood…while we didn’t make it to the flagship (44 Conduit Street), we did find a British Designer Sale that happens a few times a year. You can become a member and get in before the public, but when we showed up, the last half an hour of course, there was still a lot to choose from. The sale included men’s and women’s garments from Vivian Westwood, 120% Linen, Girbaud, and more. If you travel to London often or live there…may be worth becoming a member. The inquiry email is: bds@london83.freeeserve.co.uk

For inexpensive yet trendy options, these London chains are good check out:
Jigsaw, a British version of Anthropologie, (however, they do have a store in San Francisco) and Whistles with cute dresses this season.

Just a few new shopping ideas the next time you are in London Town. RL

Photo credits top to bottom:

All Saints Spring 09, Laurence Coste Jewelry display, RL shopping for vintage, Vivienne Westwood Spring 09